Grooming

Stan Soldan. Photo: PomadeShop.
Stan Soldan. Photo: PomadeShop.

„It was a detective game to rediscover pomade knowledge“

 

 

 

October 3, 2017

 

Interview with PomadeShop founder Stan Soldan about pomade, wet shaving and the cult brand "Dapper Dan" 

 

Correct answer Grooming winning quiz

Royal Warrant holder D.R. Harris, London.
Royal Warrant holder D.R. Harris, London.

 

July 3, 2015

 

At the grooming opening winning quiz we ask about what kind of material, the hair of a shaving brush is usually made of. 

Badger. Photo: Men's Individual Fashion.
Badger. Photo: Men's Individual Fashion.

The correct answer was c. Usually the hair of a shaving brush is made of badger hair. The winner gets a shaving set of D.R. Harris, London, containing of a shaving soap in mahogany bowl and an aftershave. The other animals also deliver hair for products. Marten is used for painting brushes, stoat for furs. Badgers are widely common in Europe and not endangered. 


Badger hair. Photo: Men's Individual Fashion.
Badger hair. Photo: Men's Individual Fashion.

The handle can be made of different material, for instance wood, horn and porcelain, but also synthetic material and chrome. The hair quality differs. „Normal“ badger hair, according to quality referred to as „pure badger“, "best badger“ or "super badger" and the so called "silver tip" (of which my friend Johannes talks all the time). The Silvertip belongs to the winter fell of the badger and is the highest quality. 

Different hair quality of shaving brushes. Photo: Men's Individual Fashion.
Different hair quality of shaving brushes. Photo: Men's Individual Fashion.


Nowadays there are synthetic fibers, which nearly outperforms the original badger hair in terms of usage and life expectancy. The German manufacturer MÜHLE Shaving invented these fibers under the trademark appendix „Fibre“ and offers the opportunity to use a high quality shaving brush without worrying about the badger.


A genuine badger hair shaving brush smells in wet condition a little like „animal“ and offers the original wet shaving experience. It does not have to be MÜHLE Shaving, you also at a regular chemist’s shop a gentleman gets a shaving brush made of badger hair. I do, however, consider my old shaving brush with blue plastic handle as terrible lacking any definite style. 

Men’s Individual Fashion thanks D.R. Harris, London for sponsoring the prize of this winning quiz. We also thank MÜHLE Shaving, Stützengrün/Ore Mountains for the photo permission in their flagshipstore in Berlin. 

The art of shaving 

Electric razor vs. shaving brush. Photo: Men's Individual Fashion.
Electric razor vs. shaving brush. Photo: Men's Individual Fashion.

 

The question: Wet shaving or electric razor?

 


 

June 1, 2015


My beard is most popular when I hold my God child on my arms. She is regularly fascinated and the judgement of infants you shall not question. There are different opportunities how to shave. The easiest and most functional method is a electric razor. It is a pretty quick and comfortable procedure.

 

For longer beards a beard trimmer is perfect. Even more thorough is wet shaving, which is used in Germany by around 40 % of all men and which is a special ceremony for these men in the morning (including myself). The blade cuts the beard hair. To soak the beard hair up for shaving and in order to create a well sliding surface on the skin there are plenty products. Very common is canned shaving foam or gel. More natural alternatives are shaving soap and cream (for travelling and business trips). Whereas shaving foam is to be used on the hand or in a shaving mug, the shaving soap in a bowl is immediately usable. Shaving soap is applied by a brush to the skin. In the interview with Men’s Individual Fashion (siehe below) barber Chris Paralikidis explains: „treat the shaving brush with hot water in order to foam it up“.

 

To calm the irritated skin after the shaving procedure, an aftershave or balsam works for most men. 

Safety razor. Photo copyright: MÜHLE.
Safety razor. Photo copyright: MÜHLE.


Advanced techniques

 

Apart from usually razor blades there are other instruments. A friend of mine is passionate about his safety razor. For the very bold and classic men among you there are cut-throat razors which are also used by decent barbers to cut the neck hair. 


It works well for me to soak up my beard hairs even more is a „shaving bowl“. I drip a little mint oil on a towel, pour hot water over it in the washbasin and treat my face with the very warm, wrung out towel (ATTENTION: scald danger!). Afterwards I apply shaving soap to the dry face. This results, apart from even more soaked up beard hairs and a more thorough shaving experience, in more even and proper beard hairs, let alone the relaxation and mini-spa effect. My girl friend used to observe my ceremony with fascination and amusement (whereas she denies the latter).

 

Alternatives are preshave products and longer application of the shaving soap.

"The profession is very important"

Interview with Christos Paralikidis about hair dressing, men types and what a man should have in stock at home for lady visits.

Photo: Men's Individual Fashion
Photo: Men's Individual Fashion

 

May 4, 2015

 

I got introduced to my name twin Chris by recommendation of a good friend. Christos Paralikidis („Chris“) is a men’s man. I learned from the Greek barber more about fashion and ladies than from men’s magazines. The first time he styled me, he advised me in his bold, but kind manner not to further see the barber in my former study city (too many mistakes).  After my stay in Brussels, he paid his respect to the barber there (it was the Belgian champion of the year).

 

Before important appointments he created the right hair dress „I saw you in full suit, what’s going on“. A barber would be no barber, if he were not a key figure in the big questions of a man’s life. Regularly the first question is about my relationship status and in howfar the current girlfriend is special. He loved to tell Men’s Individual Fashion about hair and style. 

Photo: Men's Individual Fashion
Photo: Men's Individual Fashion

What would you say what a man should take care of in the hair dressing matter?


The own profession is quite important. In which world the man lives. Furthermore, the type. A rocker has a different style than a gentleman like you. The head shape you have to consider as well. 



What role does the hair style have on a man? I always feel great after being at the barber’s shop.


Yes, I share this feeling, even though I am a barber. During my military time in Greece, I had to wear very short hair. I felt bad, this takes a man’s dignity. A good hair style is very important to feel good.


What is a no-go?


I often recognize men, who have a hair dress, which makes them look five to ten years older. If a man needs this for business: Great. But these are often students (looks a little irritated). If the hair edge is cut too sharp it looks odd. And overplucked eyebrows are in my opinion a no-go. An unclared-for beard is a desaster.


What can you tell about beard care?

 

The beard is supposed to be washed properly and you can use beard oil for care. If a man shaves wet, he shall treat the brush with hot water and foamed it up with shaving soap.

Photo: Men's Individual Fashion
Photo: Men's Individual Fashion

What can a man consider concerning the hair care?

 

Apart from cleaning shampoo by all means use a scalp product or a conditioner. Do no use products with parabens and sulfats!


Can you recommend a few products?

 

A selection would be American Crew, Kevin Murphy and Charisma (looks very humble).


What could a man use for hair styling?

 

Matt products look more natural. Nowaday there are pomade and wax both shining and matt. Gel is rather shining.


What should a man have in his bathroom to master scheduled or spontaneous lady visits?

 

(Looks buffled) Condoms (laughs). No, honestly: Hairdryer, shampoo and conditioner should be the standard. Furthermore he can have in stock sea salt spray and wax. 

The conversations we had in his office and while he styled me. Some of the photos I took on a fashion show where he styled on the stage and to which I was invited. 


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